The Italians are mad about food, which isn’t that surprising. There’s an entire social media account dedicated to Italians (and people claiming Italian heritage) getting irate about the global desecration of their national cuisine.

So, you might be wondering, what are they mad about now? And the answer is that this time it’s not technically food – it’s coffee.

The Olympic Games are on in Paris right now, which means athletes, media and fans from across the globe are gathered in the French capital. Most people are enjoying themselves, though an Italian swimming commentator made headlines last week when he complained, on air, that the coffee served in the press room was so bad it was probably made with water from the River Seine.

A few days later, someone snapped a photo of an espresso machine that the Italian commentary team had purchased and brought in themselves to enjoy decent coffee while they worked.

The only surprising thing about this whole episode, surely, is that the Italians were surprised. They live right across the border from France – they must have realised the coffee there is terrible?

For a nation that basically invented modern gastronomy, French coffee sucks. It sucks when it’s bad, but it even sucks when it’s supposed to be good.

When Australians travel, like the Italian commentators, we want good coffee, and we expect other countries to have it.

French people, I’m sure, will disagree. Sacre bleu, they’ll say: you’re just going to the wrong places. You’re ordering the wrong thing. You’re a tourist and you’re ordering a cafe au lait – or worse, a cappuccino – from some place on the Champs-Élysées, and you’re just getting a steaming bowl of vaguely coffee-flavoured milk.

To which I would reply: that’s not what I’m doing. I know my cafe au lait from my cafe noisette. And the coffee I’m served in France is still, generally, terrible. (Also, why do those bad, milky coffees even exist? No tourist to Australia is being served something like that.)

I’ve always marvelled at how bad the coffee is in France. The French make some of the best food, and definitely the best wine, in the world. They have the most sophisticated cafe culture on Earth. They also share a border with Italy, the home of excellent coffee.

READ MORE:

https://www.smh.com.au/traveller/reviews-and-advice/terrible-french-coffee-is-causing-controversy-in-paris-i-m-not-surprised-20240806-p5jzxj.html

HOW MANY COFFEES CAN AN ATHLETE DRINK BEFORE BEING DISQUALIIED FOR BEING ON "DRUG"? DO THE FRENCH USE THE SEINE WATER TO MAKE CAFé?....

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Australian Olympians are donning Gina Rinehart's gold Rossi boots while some politicians are turning on RM Williams

By national regional affairs reporter Jane Norman/ABC

As they stepped aboard the luxury yacht, about to set sail on the Seine, it wasn't our Olympians' hard-won medals glinting in the setting sun — it was their golden footwear.

The exclusive soiree had been organised by the billionaire backer of Australia's swimming team, Gina Rinehart, and along with their invitation to attend was a request to wear the Rossi boots she had gifted them.

Founded in Adelaide in 1910, the heritage branded working boot is the latest acquisition of Rinehart's cattle company S. Kidman and Co, which also counts Driza-Bone oilskin jackets among its stable of brands. 

Sailing past Parisian landmarks, Australia's Olympians became walking advertisements for the boot Rinehart purchased for an undisclosed sum in December, demonstrating her "commitment to preserving iconic national brands".

"Acquiring Rossi Boots is not just a business decision; it’s a recognition of our national history," Rinehart said at the time. 

"We are pleased to add this iconic brand to our growing portfolio."

This pursuit into Australian apparel has, once again, put Rinehart in competition with fellow billionaire mining magnate Andrew "Twiggy" Forrest. 

Forrest snapped up another iconic boot brand, RM Williams, for $190 million in 2020, followed by the hatmaker Akubra in late 2023.

There's no love lost between the rich listers, who both spent much of their early lives in the red dirt of the West Australian outback and went on to make their fortunes in mining.

But this latest battle is about more than boots — it's about power and influence. 

Through her company's sartorial acquisitions, Rinehart's reach — particularly into the conservative side of politics — is on public display. 

At $250 a pop, Rossis are about half the price of a pair of RM Williams, and are typically worn by workers on mining and construction sites. 

RMs, however, are the boot of choice for most male federal politicians, including the prime minister (you only have to tune into Question Time to see the row of leather boots on the frontbenches).

Opposition Leader Peter Dutton has long been an RM Williams man, but more recently has been stepping out in Rossi boots.

He even paid a special visit to the Rossi Boots stall at Beef Week in Rockhampton in May, following what his office termed an RM's 'blow out' at the event, going on to proudly display his pair (a more classic brown, rather than gold) alongside S. Kidman and Co. CEO and former Northern Territory chief minister, Adam Giles.

Dutton also brought them onto the world stage when he travelled to Israel earlier this month and was snapped sitting beside President Isaac Herzog, with Rossi's recognisable red tab peeking out.

It's a "form of homage" according to Brand Agency CEO Steve Harris, who says Dutton has a "well-known" allegiance to Rinehart.

Indeed, Dutton – who reportedly made an overnight dash to Perth to make a brief appearance at the mining magnate's 70th birthday bash in February – has described Rinehart as "a dear friend" and a "great Australian".

"He's certainly trying to establish a close relationship for financial purposes, for donation purposes, so it's probably a strange way of buying influence," Harris says.

"But if he was wearing a competitor's boot, I'm sure she would ask — and probably has asked — 'Why aren't you wearing my product?'"

Dutton isn't the only federal politician sporting Rinehart's brands.

Scan Pauline Hanson's socials and you'll find a promotion for "a massive 20 per cent discount off Rossi Boots and Drizabone" for the month of May. Rinehart had attended a One Nation fundraiser, as the guest of honour, a few months earlier. 

And there appears to be a political tone to these fashion allegiances.

Climate and energy policy is perhaps where Rinehart's footprint has most left its mark.

A long-time proponent of nuclear power, Rinehart has questioned the cost of reaching net zero emissions by 2050 and labelled wind turbines "bird-killing wind generators". 

Forrest, on the other hand, owns Squadron Energy, one of Australia's biggest renewables companies (building wind turbines at scale), and promotes clean energy with an almost evangelical zeal.

It's probably for this reason that Forrest struggles to get a face-to-face meeting with Dutton when he's in Canberra. 

Some Nationals have become wary of renewables, and Forrest's ambitious plans, objecting to their own government offering subsidies to the billionaire's green hydrogen venture during the 2022 election campaign. 

Now in Opposition, the Coalition has adopted nuclear as part of its energy policy, and within the party, you'll find no bigger opponent to the expansion of large-scale renewables in the regions than the Member for New England, Barnaby Joyce. 

"[Forrest] is putting swindle factories or so-called wind farms all over our area," Joyce told radio station 2GB in May.

"I don't mind him as a person but these wind farms, swindle factories … they're just killing us out in the country."

Joyce is also a close friend of Rinehart's.

He's now let his boots do the talking, replacing the RMs he was wearing just last year, with a pair of American-owned Ariat cowboy boots. 

While fashion can be dismissed as trivial, what you wear says a lot about what you do, who you are and what you stand for. 

Former US secretary of state Madeleine Albright famously used her brooch collection (now on display at the Museum of American Diplomacy) to convey foreign policy messages, while the late Queen Elizabeth II deployed soft diplomacy with sartorial flair. 

Julie Bishop, as Australia's foreign minister, would also speak in code through her fashion choices.

So what are politicians trying to say by wearing these billionaire-owned boots?

RM Williams boots, which sell for around $650, were founded in 1932 — also in Adelaide — and have long been considered the dress boot among farmers and pastoralists.

But they have also become ubiquitous in boardrooms across the country among those keen to project an image of wealth while simultaneously tapping into the "working man ethos".

This is a trend that started in the 1990s, according to Harris, when media mogul Kerry Stokes and "the original gangster" of business, News Limited CEO Ken Cowley, rescued the beleaguered brand.

When they started wearing the boot, their employees and associates followed. 

"If you wanted to do business with them, if you were in meetings with them, or if you were of their ilk, then you started wearing RMs," Harris says.

"And that, to me, is the DNA of why bankers, stockbrokers, financiers are wearing RM Williams boots. It dates back to the 1990s, not the much longer brand heritage of RM Williams making saddles and country accoutrements."

The bootmaker's icon status was cemented when Australian-born actor and "global boot ambassador" Hugh Jackman wore nothing but a pair of RMs in an ad campaign in 2020.

In buying the brand, Forrest's company Tattarang ensured the boots would continue to be made locally, and expanded the South Australian workshop — which now employs 393 staff — before adding a new women's line.

It also partnered with TAFE SA to offer traineeships in both leatherwork and industrial sewing "so that a new generation can learn the skills that RM Williams is keeping alive". 

"We care about our industry and craftspeople. Since Tattarang’s acquisition in 2020, RM Williams has invested $8 million in equipment and the floor space for the women's line has expanded by 10,000 square metres," a Tattarang spokesperson said in a statement. 

Rossi's headquarters are in Kilburn, about 15km down the road from RM Williams, and while some of its boots are manufactured at the workshop, other styles are made overseas.

S. Kidman and Co. did not respond to the ABC's inquiries about the number of staff it employs or its future manufacturing plans.

Despite any feelings Rinehart and Forrest may engender, or any controversy their views may attract, Harris reckons the brands are ultimately bigger than their billionaire owners. 

And history shows that influential players can have some sway over the decisions of Australian brands — just ask federal MP Bob Katter, who briefly boycotted Akubra in 2015 when the company announced it had stopped using local rabbit skins for its iconic hats.

If RM Williams or Rossi were to experience a dip in sales for any reason, Rinehart and Forrest could potentially rely on their own employees. 

Staff working for their mining empires are offered discounts and encouraged to wear the boots owned by their respective bosses.

Ultimately, Harris says the images of Olympic medallists wearing their Rossi Boots on the Seine are a golden marketing opportunity for Rinehart. 

"The publicity and promotion you generate by having some of the most successful, beautiful, high-profile people in Australia wearing that product would subvert any brand damage in my view," he says.

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2024-08-10/gina-rinehart-rossi-boots-show-the-power-of-fashion-in-politics/104189792

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